I've used economy blocks again here for this seaside quilt because I felt that the designs lent themselves to this block very well. It has had lots of lovely comments from customers at shows and has proved very popular. So, I have written a specific tutorial for this quilt to make things easier for you all.
To make a quilt, 6 x 9 blocks, you will need 8 fat quarters and 6 animal strips. Here, I used Seashore bundle 1 with 3 Seabird B and 3 Shorebird strips but you could use 2 Seabird A, 2 Seabird B and 2 Shorebird strips if you wish.
Cutting
Cut 14 larger squares 4 x 4 inches and 14 small squares 3 x 3 inches from each fat quarter. That will give you a total of 112 larger squares and 112 small squares. You will only need 108 of each but it's easier if you cut them all out and it gives you a more choice when deciding on your combinations.
I decided to make 8 different blocks using 4 fabric combinations:
- Starfish and, Barnacles and limpets
- Jetsam and Beadlet anemone
- Sand patterns and Topshells
- Cockles and Mussels, and Calm sea
So, e.g. I put large Starfish squares with small Barnacles and limpets squares and large Barnacles and limpets squares with small Starfish squares. However, you can combine yours however you like.
Next cut out the 54 animal squares. To do this, cut each animal design from the fabric strips using the black marks as a guide (approximately 4 x 4 inches). Then accurately trim each side until you have a 3 1/2 inch square. N.B. Make sure the motif is in the centre of the square. Due to the nature of fabric, it may not be a case of just trimming each side by the same amount.
Making one block
For one block you will need:
2 4 inch squares of the one fabric
2 3 inch squares of the another fabric
1 animal design square cut so that it is 3 1/2 inches square.
1.Cut the non-animal squares diagonally into triangles as in the photo below. Cutting them this way is particularly important for fabrics with direction
2.Take the central square and fold it in half but don't make the crease firm. Now make the crease firm only at each of the two edges, to mark the centre of the two sides. Open up the square and fold it in half the other way and repeat the creasing at only the two edges. Open up the fabric and you will have four marks indicating the centre of each side of the square. You could just measure and mark with a pen or pencil but this is easier and saves time.
3.Take small triangles a and b. Fold them in half along the long edge and make a crease in the centre just at the edge. Open them out.
4.Pin the triangles, right sides together, to the top and bottom of the central square, matching up the creases. 
5.Sew, press the seams away from the central square and then trim off the tiny triangles at the edges.
6.Take triangles c and d. Pin the triangles to the left and right of the central square, right sides together, matching the creases and making sure the fabric is in the correct orientation. 
7.Sew and press the seams away from the central square. Trim the pieced square so that it is as close to 4 3/4 inches square as possible (mine was a little short in places but I will show you how to sort that out later).
8.Take large triangles C and D (I accidently did this one in a different order, which makes no difference but sorry if it is confusing. Make sure you use the same order for all your blocks in one quilt). Mark the centre of the longest sides with a crease as before. 
9.Pin the triangles, right sides together, C to the top left and B to the bottom right of the square, matching the central crease to where the corner of the central square would meet the edge.
This is also where you can adjust the size of your pieced square to make it 4 3/4 inches square. You can see below that I have placed the two large triangles just above and below the central square to make the central pieced square 4 3/4 inches high.
10.When you are happy, sew the triangles to the square but when you get to the middle lumpy bit at the corners of the square, slow right down and sew very carefully. This stops wobbly seams. Press the seams away from the central pieced square. Trim off the tiny triangles, at 4 3/4 inches.
11.Take large triangles A and B. Pin the triangles, right sides together, A to the top right and B to the bottom left of the square, matching the central crease to where the corner of the central square would meet the edge. Adjust as before to make the central pieced square 4 3/4 inches wide if possible. 
12.Sew the triangles to the square, not forgetting to sew very slowly at the lumpy corners of the central square. Press the seams away from the square.
13.Trim the finished pieced block so that it is 6 1/2 inches square. Make sure that there is at least 1/4 inch between the point of the small inner triangles and the edge. This will make sure that the points are not cut off when piecing the blocks together. 
Finished block, front
Finished block, back
Now you just have to make 53 more!
Sewing blocks together
My quilt is 6 blocks by 9 blocks. I arranged my blocks randomly, trying to spread out the same colours and birds so that they were not too near each other.
Sew the blocks in each row together at the sides first. Press the seams in each row in opposite directions (e.g. top row to the left, second row to the right, third to the left etc.) so that when the rows are sewn together, the seams are nested. This reduces bulk. I pressed the seams between rows open. I think this makes it flatter.
Sew a border on if you wish. Quilt and bind in the usual way. See my previous tutorials.